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HUB 01

Multicookers & Electric Pressure Cookers

The Instant Pot category, and everything that chases it. One pot that pressure-cooks, slow-cooks, sautés and — on some — air-fries, with a marketing layer thick enough that most buyers cannot tell a 7-in-1 from a 13-in-1 that does the same four things. We rank on what the manufacturer publishes and what it costs to run.

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A hearty stew being ladled from a pot in a warm kitchen

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Instant Pot Instant Pot Duo 7-in-1 Electric Pressure Cooker, 6 Quart

The Best Multicookers

Our top pick: Instant Pot Duo 7-in-1 Electric Pressure Cooker, 6 Quart The multicooker that made the category, and still the right default. Instant Brands publishes the wattage, the working pressure range and a stainless (not nonstick) inner pot, which is more than most of the field manages — and it costs less than almost all of them.

What a multicooker actually is

A multicooker is an electric pot with a heating element in the base, a lid that seals for pressure, and a microcontroller running both. Pressure cooking is the reason to own one — sealing the lid raises the boiling point to around 250°F, which turns dried beans tender in 40 minutes and a tough chuck roast to shreds in an hour. Every other function on the front panel is that same element at a different power level: slow cook is low and long, sauté is high and open, keep-warm is barely on.

Understanding that saves you money immediately, because it tells you the “7-in-1 versus 13-in-1” number on the box means very little. Most of those functions are the same heat relabeled. What genuinely differs between these machines is four things: the pot material, whether and how the lid seals for pressure, whether it also crisps with hot air, and how honestly the manufacturer documents any of it.

The pot is the spec that actually varies

Almost every multicooker here draws between 700 and 1,500 watts and pressurizes to roughly the same 10–12 psi that Instant Pot publishes on its manuals. The real hardware difference is the inner pot. Instant Pot uses an 18/8 stainless pot with a tri-ply base on its core models — no coating to scratch off, so it outlives everything and takes metal utensils and hard searing. Ninja and most budget cookers use a nonstick pot that cleans more easily and wears out faster. Neither is wrong, but the stainless pot is why a well-kept Duo is still going a decade later, and it is worth knowing which you are buying before the price tag decides for you.

Pressure, crisp, or neither

Three machines in this hub are not really in the same class, and the honest thing is to say so. The combo units — the Duo Crisp and the Ninja Foodi — add a second lid that air-fries, so a pot roast pressure-cooks and then crisps in the same pot. The Ninja PossibleCooker deliberately drops pressure entirely for people who never used it. And the Crock-Pot is a plain slow cooker, here as the honest floor: if Slow Cook is the only button you ever pressed, it does that job for a fraction of the price. Being clear about those distinctions is more useful than pretending they all compete head-on.

The running cost, in the open

A 1,000-watt cooker like the Duo costs about 18.8¢ an hour to run at full draw, at the US average of 18.83¢ per kWh. But a pressure cook only draws full power while it is coming up to pressure — once sealed, the element cycles to hold it — so a typical session costs a few cents, not the hourly figure. We publish the wattage and the sum on every pick so you can redo it with your own bill; the combo units that air fry draw the most, because the crisping element is doing real work.

The mistake almost everyone makes

Buying on function count instead of the pot and the lid. A thirteen-in-one cooker does not do thirteen things a seven-in-one cannot; it has more labels for the same heat. What you will actually feel every week is whether the pot is stainless or nonstick, whether the lid seals itself so you never forget the valve, and whether it fits the food you cook. Get those three right — start with the model that fits how you cook — and the preset count on the box becomes exactly as irrelevant as it should be.

Everything in this section

All of Multicookers

Filed elsewhere, written for you

Also worth reading

These live under a different section of the site but answer the same question a multicookers buyer is actually asking.